Many of the steps required to replace a damaged or old shower faucet can be done even if you don't have much experience with plumbing or bath remodeling. This guide will help you replace a shower tap.
Tip: To prevent any small parts from getting into the shower opening, block it with a cloth before you attempt to replace the faucet. To protect yourself from tools being dropped, place a blanket or cardboard on the shower base or tub floor.
TURN OFF WATER
Turn off the water supply.
If you don't have a separate valve for the bathroom, turn off water to the entire house.
To relieve the pressure in the lines, open a faucet on a lower level of your home and let it remain open while you work.
Tip: Make sure to choose a faucet that has integral stops. This will make it easier to do any maintenance. Integral stops allow you to service one faucet without turning off the main water supply.
REMOVE OLD TRIM
To replace a shower faucet, use a pair of pliers to turn the connecting nut counterclockwise.
There are many ways to remove faucet handles. You can remove the cover plate with a small screwdriver. Some, such as the one in the video, have a set screw on the handle. You can take the handle off by using an Allen wrench.
You can either remove the remaining parts of the handle or unscrew them. Continue removing pieces until you reach the valve at the wall. You can remove a tub spout with a set screw or twist it by turning counterclockwise.
Tip: Wrap a towel around the connection to protect it. Hold the shower pipe in your other hand to prevent it from moving inside the wall.
REMOVE THE OLD VALVE, AND CHOOSE A NEW VALVE
First, remove the existing shower valve from your shower to install a new one.
Cut a section of drywall about a foot wide on the opposite side of your shower valve to gain access.
Locate the valve by drilling a pilot hole from the bathroom side near the valve using a long bit.
Measure an even square from the back wall and then cut it out using a drywall saw.
The stringer runs between the studs and connects to the valve.
Use a tubing cutter to cut the copper pipe. Cut the pipe leading to the shower and the hot-and-cold lines below.
After the pipe has been cut, you can use a reciprocating tool to remove the stringer that still contains the old valve.
It's now time to select a new valve.
You should ensure that you get the right valve for your faucet. The valve should have two outlets for the showerhead and tub spout. These fittings can be connected to your pipe via male threads or female solder ports.
Before you buy fittings, make sure you know what type of plumbing your house has. If you have PEX (or cross-linked polyethylene) plumbing, then you will need either to purchase a valve with PEX fittings, or to obtain the appropriate adaptors to attach the PEX lines the valve to.
The second outlet channel must be capped if your bathroom has a shower or tub only. For bathrooms that do not have a tub, you can also get shower-only valves.
The valve must be at the right distance from the wall. It is attached to a stringer which is a brace that runs between the studs.
When setting the appropriate depth for the stringer, be sure to account for the valve's depth, the water-resistant wallpaper and the thickness of your tile or shower enclosure. Instructions included with the valve will provide the dimensions of the valve and the plumbing.
SWEAT THE PIPES
.jpg)
Attach female adapters to the ends and copper pipe to connect to the valve. Fittings should be soldered with a torch and lead-free solder to ensure leak-free connections. This is also known as sweating the pipes.
To clean the ends of the pipe, use a deburring instrument. Rotate it several times to make the section shine.
Clean the fitting's interior with a wire brush
Apply a thin coating of solder paste/flux to the inside of your valve fittings and the clean end of the copper pipes. The pipe should be inserted all the way into an adapter.
To heat the fitting's middle, use a torch. Apply solder to the joints between the pipes and let it melt into the seam. Do not overdo it. The flux will dissolve the oxides and draw solder into your seam.
Solderless connectors are available if you don't have a torch and want to make the connection. Just push the button and it will lock.
To remove the compression fitting, you must use the tools provided by the manufacturer.
Use solderless connectors to clean each pipe. Allow 7/8 inches for the connector to cover each pipe. Before connecting to threaded fittings, apply Teflon tape.
ASSEMBLE THE NEW VALVE SECTION
You should ensure that you get the right valve for your faucet. The valve should have two outlets for the shower head and tub spout. These fittings can be connected to your pipe via male threads or female solder ports.
The second outlet channel must be capped if your bathroom has a shower or tub only. For bathrooms that do not have a tub, you can also get shower-only valves.
The valve must be at the right distance from the wall. It is attached to a stringer which is a brace that runs between the studs.
When setting the appropriate depth for the stringer, be sure to account for the depth of your valve, water-resistant wallpaper, and thickness of the tile. Instructions included with the valve will provide the exact dimensions of the valve and the plumbing.
INSTALL THE CARTRIDGE
Every shower faucet has its own installation instructions. Please refer to your owner's manual for specific details. Some valves have a cartridge already installed. You can skip this step if your valve has one. Some faucet manufacturers include the cartridge with the purchase. It must be installed first in the valve.
Install the cartridge according to manufacturer instructions.
It should be pushed into the valve. It should fit snugly when properly inserted.
Attach the bonnet nut to the bolt and tighten it with pliers.
INSTALL THE TUB SPOUT
Install the tub spout by connecting the adapter provided to the outlet pipe.
Apply a layer flux to the exterior of the surface.
Take out the O-rings and other parts that might be damaged by the heat, then slide the adapter on the pipe.
Heat the adapter with a torch and add a little solder to the seam.
To catch drips, place a piece of cardboard in the tub. Once the tub cools, put the O-ring on again and turn the clockwise to attach the tub spout to the adapter.
INSTALL THE SHOWER HEAD & OPTIONAL HANDSHOWER
Shower heads can be installed in the same manner. Simply screw the nut onto threads on the shower arm.
Wrap some Teflon tape clockwise around threads of the arm before installing.
Attach the showerhead to the threads and tighten.
Attach the other end of the hose at the hand shower.
It is important to know that a shower handle will have a sleeve that slides over the valve and cartridge. You should include any O-rings and spacers that are required in the installation.
The escutcheon is attached to the wall by screws and goes around the sleeves.
When replacing a showerhead, the last thing to do is to test it and adjust your temperature.
Avoid scalding by setting the shower's outlet temperature at 120 degrees.
Turn on the water supply, check for leaks, and then slide on the handle to turn the water on to the highest setting.
To check the temperature, turn off the water supply and take the handle out to access the temperature limit stop. This is usually a clip or ring that has been pulled up and turned clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the adjustment required. Next, insert the clip or ring.
Follow the instructions on your faucet and make sure to check every adjustment until you achieve the desired maximum temperature.
